Update as of 9-19-2013-
I didn’t compare a carter tube in this mix which is something I should have done. I have since moved to a Carter tube in my redux and I do believe it lets a larger amount of gas in than the redux tube.
I would choose the redux tube second after the carter tube though.
In my Redux I have been using both a stock Ranger powertube and a modified Ranger powertube.
I did use the modified ranger tube for a year and half after making this post so it is a very good powertube for the redux and pretty much indestructable as well as likely half the price of a carter tube (but you still would have to modifiy it).
I haven’t done any tests with the following shown modified Ranger tube so I can’t comment on it’s efficiency other than the fact that it seems to work as well as the stock Ranger assembly in the warm climates of Northern and Southern California.
The mentioned tubes are pictured below…
Top tube is a stock WGP Ranger powertube with the hybrid seal (built into the valve retaining screw).
I have replaced the seal with an oring. On stock hybrid Ranger powertube assembly there is no seal on the stainless cup. Threads on this powertube are a massive 10×32.
Second from the top is a modified Ranger powertube with a Line SI valve retaining screw and modified brass phantom cup seal.
The phantom cup and (rebuildable) seal have been drilled to accommodate the 10×32 threads.
Third down is the tube that came out of my redux which is the standard modified Lapco #4 which has been drilled out and shortened.
I am not sure if the base ports are enlarged. It is shown along side a lapco plastic cup seal (left column).
Threads on this cup seal are 6×32.
Forth down is a stock modern phantom powertube assembly. With the stock Cup and stock rebuildable seal. Threads on this tube are a longer phantom 6×32.
And the 5th down in the cup seal column is an 8×32 cup seal I attempted to retap to 10×32.
The above image shows a close up of the hybrid ranger powertube assembly set up. The only difference between this setup and a completely stock ranger powertube set up is that the completely stock setup would have a white seal in the valve retaining screw instead of the black oring.
Here is a comparison of the stock hybrid WGP powertube (left) vs the hybrid valve retaining screw which I placed an oring in. In this picture the stock valve retaining screw has a powertube stuck in it (opps).
This picture illustrates the length which a stock ranger powertube protrudes from the valve retaining screw. (Closed Valve potion)
Approximately 1.75 inches.
This picture shows the inner diameter of a stock ranger tube. Approximately .169 of an inch.
This picture shows the inner diameter of the base ports on a stock ranger tube. Approximately .105 of an inch.
Here is the modified WGP ranger powertube assembly which has the 10×32 threads and Phantom cup and rebuildable seal modified to fit (drilled and tapped cup and enlarge seal center hole). The Valve retaining screw is a Line SI.
A larger picture showing the drilled out phantom seal.
This picture illustrated the length which the modified ranger powertube protrudes from the valve retaining screw. (Closed Valve position)
Approximately 1.75 inches.
This picture shows the inner diameter of the modified ranger tube. Approximately .204 of an inch.
Here is a picture of the base ports of the modified Ranger tube. Because of the 10×32 base these holes are able to be drilled out and still offer a significant amount of metal around the base ports.
The diameter of these 2 base port holes are .15 each.
This picture illustrated the length which the stock Redux (modified ((cut down and drilled)) Lapco #4) powertube protrudes from the valve retaining screw. (Closed Valve position)
Approximately 1 and 15/16th inches.
This picture shows the inner diameter of the stock Redux (modified ((cut down and drilled)) Lapco #4) tube. Approximately .191 of an inch.
Here is a picture of the base ports of the stock Redux (modified ((cut down and drilled)) Lapco #4) tube. This tube has 6×32 threads.
The diameter of these 3 base port holes are approximately .13 each.
This picture shows a stock modern phantom powertube assembly.
This picture illustrates the length which the stock modern phantom powertube protrudes from the valve retaining screw. (Closed Valve position)
Approximately 1.625 inches.
This picture shows the inner diameter of the modern stock phantom tube. Approximately .176 of an inch.
Here is a picture of the base ports of the modern stock phantom tube.
The diameter of these 3 base port holes are .095 each.
These pictures show the crack which has developed at the base of the stock Redux (Modified Lapco #4) tube. Because of the narrow base and the enlarging of the inner diameter the base was left with too little metal and has cracked.
These pictures show the difference in the thread size between the top Stock Redux (modified lapco) valve tube which is 6×32, middle ranger tube which is 10×32, and the stock phantom which is 6×32.
Here is a size comparison between the base of the modified Ranger tube and the stock Redux (modified Lapco #4).
And the exposed based port inlets when the modified ranger (left) and stock redux (modified lapco #4) (right) are equipped with the valve retaining screw and cup seal.
Here is a (well used) lapco cup seal I tried drilling out and tapping to 10×32 threads.
When enlarging from 6×32 or 8×32 threads to 10×32 I tried a stock Lapco as show above, a NW Spitfire 8×32 cup seal as shown in the first picture, and a brass phantom rebuildable cup seal.
I found the easiest to enlarge and most stable would be the rebuildable phantom tube.
When I got my Redux I began using a stock hybrid ranger valve assembly (white seal in valve retaining screw with stock ranger tube) because of the cracked stock tube. This assembly worked well in my Redux with the right springs.
I have not done extensive testing with the drilled out/modified ranger feed tube and rebuild-able phantom cup seal but immediate tests after switching from the stock hybrid ranger valve assembly I didn’t notice much increase in velocity or shot count but actual differences between the two would be interesting to see with a determined test.
Ranger tubes are a great commodity for modifying because of the thick base threads and when drilled out extensively they appear to remain strong but continued use will be the real determining factor.
And here are links to a couple relavant categories:
Powertubes:
http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/pump-parts/nelson/powertubes.html
WGP powertubes (including ranger tubes):
http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/pump-parts/nelson/powertubes/wgp-powertubes.html
Lapco tubes:
http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/pump-parts/nelson/powertubes/lapco-powertubes.html
CCI tubes:
http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/pump-parts/nelson/powertubes/cci-phantom-powertubes.html
Valve retaining screws:
http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/pump-parts/nelson/valve-retaining-screws.html
