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Technical Tips for Sheridan pump paintball markers.


Rebuilding a Classic Valve Sheridan PGP Pump Paintgun


View in HD here:

In this video we rebuild a classic Sheridan PGP with the standard valve (not the cartridge valve!).

I do not offer repairs through Baccipaintball only parts but I can recommend if you aren't interested in doing the repair yourself.

This assembly will be the same on all shoot to pierce non cartridge valve sheridans such as the PGP, Pursuit Pistol, PMI 1, PMI 1 DF. K, K1, K2 and KP2s (and maybe some KP3s) use the same valve assembly but the breakdown to get to the valve is a little different.

Breaking down a Mac-1 Annihilator or Avenger would also be the same process.

In the video I discard the lead valve gasket which comes out of the valve when I remove the valve from the body of the PGP. This gasket is not needed. It may prevent over tightening on the valve but I always remove it when I rebuild an old gun.

Before attempting to knock your valve out make sure you remove the oring that gets sandwich between the valve and the brass valve casing. This is usually a hard oring to get out after it has been inside a gun for 20 years!

When you are reassembling your standard Sheridan valve be careful not to overtighten the valve retaining screw in the body.

Most stock spare hard parts for sheridans such valves, valve retaining screws, valve casings, valve casing heads, hammers, bolts, front and back top tube plugs are all available from at:

You can find most of the valve parts referenced in this video at:

And you can find Sheridan orings here:Sheridan Orings on

Valve tools are available from Palmers at this link:

Valve tools are also available from Titus PB here:

And Palmers offers a rebuild kit for a standard sheridan shoot to pierce valve at this link:

If you aren't comfortable rebuilding your PGP yourself you can always "call PaintballTek DOT com!" for some help at:

Or visit Tim at Nor Cal Paintball in Vacaville Ca.

Palmers will also rebuild Sheridan valves and can be found online at:


Cutting a quick strip slot on a sheridan PGP


View in HD here:

In this video we use a dremel to cut a quick strip slot in a classic Sheridan / PMI PGP which will allow for easy bolt removal.

It is a good idea to remove the valve internals before cutting the quick strip slot so that brass shavings don't get inside the valve.

Also make sure to use proper safety precautions such as safety glasses to avoid metal shards getting in your eyes and gloves so you don't cut your hand.


Dealing with a stiff Sheridan Pump Stroke.

Usually the factors I check for a stiff pump stroke are the following:

•the pump handle's friction against the lower tube (is there too much gunk behind it or is it too tight on the lower tube).
•The orings on the bolts.  Sounds like you already checked this but make sure you don't put any oil on the bolt orings that will cause the orings to swell or decompose (turn to gunk).  
•The Pump rods alignment with the bolt's hole.  Some times the angle at which the pump rod is going into the bolt hole is slightly warped and can cause the pump handle or bolt to be skewed at a slight angle and put friction on one side causing a lot of drag (not sure if that makes sense).
•Spring tension can also cause a stiff pump stroke but likely wouldn't be as much of an issue as any of the other items on this list.
•Hammer drag from gunk could also be part of the problem but I would say it's even less likely than the other items on this list.

Sheridan Tap information.

Valve retaining screw tap:
Tapco USA 085 
21/32-32 H3 
HSG 23893

Rim Fire vs Centerfire

Rim fire means the air hits the ball from underneath the ball (infront of bolt) and centerfire means where the bolt covers the air passage into the breech and air travels through bolt to hit ball behind ball.
Most sheridans are Centerfire with the exception of the PGP and Pursuit pistols.